Let’s start this review off with a disclosure; I was a consultant to the 32º brand about two years ago during its initial planning stages. I did not do any design work. This is brought up only because I try to keep my reviews objective and so it seems fair that you the reader should be aware. That stated, it hoped that my positioning at that time may provide at least a bit of background insight.
At the onset 32º had a stated goal of producing a line of well made heavy sport watches with some eye catching high-end inspiration, yet at an affordable price level. Even a casual tour around this particular model and its readily apparent that they have succeeded on all points.
In addition to some great design work, what 32º brings to the table is wisdom born of experience. As discussed in an article found elsewhere on this site, “China is not necessarily a bad word,” the key (or at least one of them) is knowing the pitfalls. Knowing not only who the best players are, but often at least as important, who to avoid! 32º has used their considerable experience in the watch manufacturing world to ferret out or forge relationships with the best, including factories that produce cases for some well known brands often thought of as Swiss. In so doing they are bringing high-end craftsmanship standards to the table while at the same time doing it for something less than an opulent price tag.
The watch we’ll consider today — the 32º Swiss Scimitar — seems to be drawing from both the 32º Driver and Impulse series, two very successful models in the current (07/09) lineup. I think one of the lead features of this series is the case, so let’s start with that.
This model case is in and of itself a complication. One of the reasons I know this is that I have met with this case builder at both the Basel Watch Fair and the Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair, both times on business independent from 32º, and can tell you that their case manufacturing and design capabilities are nothing short of impressive. This case is built to high end specs indeed, and consists of numerous pieces, each finished to exacting measurement. All bolts and screws that you see are fully operable and serve a key function; nothing is molded or embossed just for show. Even the strap suspension assembly is done with bolts in lieu of the more commonly found pins. Every line in this case is razor accurate, and you will see the same attention to detail when the finish changes from brushed to polished.
The case is beautifully curved both front and back, with matched custom executed mineral crystals. The lugs themselves appear to be machinery (adding greatly to the aesthetic appeal) and indeed they are hinged at both the case and strap ends, thus assuring a comfortable fit despite despite the watch’s size and weight (see below). It also bears mentioning that the yellow gold finish on this case is excellent! I’ve seen a lot of layering work over my career and can share that this work is high quality indeed, both in color temperature and application.
One of the key visual components (and technical challenges in construction) is that this design boasts a case within a case. As you can see the outer case in turn houses a smaller steel enclosure suspended in space between the twin crystals and outer case, via sturdy brackets at both the the six and twelve o’clock positions. In turn the smaller suspended case houses a Swiss quartz movement, delivering both accurate maintenance free timekeeping as well as a true double rotor Big Date complication situated at the twelve o’clock position. The date is set via the push crown.
This “inner case” also contains all dial work and related decoration.The dial itself is crafted in several pieces, with the focal point being a beautiful circle of smoke blue mother of pearl making up the center. A graceful and precise folded fan texture radiates in black down across the dial expanse from the Big Date display at the twelve o’clock position. The dial’s frames, halos, and hand applied numbers are all finished in yellow gold, as are the hands which are treated with luminous material down the center. A lighter blue enamel is used to highlight the hour markers and roman numerals machined into the brushed bezel. The finished ensemble is presented on a thick single stitched genuine leather strap that has been embossed with an ostrich motif. I think the blue black color selected for this model beautifully pulls from the spectrum found in the mother of pearl.
Watch Specs Overview:
Weight:
finished watch (strap model) 119 gms
Movement:
Swiss Ronda 6004.B quartz
Case:
46mm x 14.5mm stainless steel, finished in yellow gold
Curved custom executed mineral crystals
Water resistant up to 3 ATM
Dial:
Mother-of-pearl center
Folded fan radiant texture
Double rotor Big Date window
Subsidiary seconds dial
Luminous hands
Strap:
200mm x 22mm thick single stitched genuine leather strap with ostrich embossing
Stainless steel buckle, finished in yellow gold
As to cost, I don’t have an exact MSRP from 32º but similar watches in the lineup are compared as high as $1395. 32º has been known to offer generous discount at times so you may well be able to acquire it for less.
Pros: Very well made. Aggressive design and construction based on high end concept. Beautifully engineered case assures comfortable fit. Looks great (and expensive) when worn. Gold finishing is outstanding. Fans of complex mechanical inspired case design will love this production.
Cons: May be too large for some dress cuffs (in fairness it’s not designed to be a sleek classic dress watch). Would have liked to have seen a water resistance higher than 3 ATM, but am sure the engineering challenges of the complex case design factored here.
Bottom Line: If you are looking for an aggressive large production in a dress-sport watch based on very high end design concept but at an especially attractive price, buy this watch immediately. For dollar spent it’s got to be one of the best choices out there.
SARO-Gem is a watch unlike any I’ve come across in my career. Always custom made, while incorporating both a beautiful and practical application of the properties of sapphire. Given how special this handmade timepiece is, I am hoping that this review will both enlighten and perhaps further fuel your enthusiasm. This is truly world class watchmaking, and to my knowledge there is nothing like it in similar price range.
In 1982 and after two years of searching for an appropriate brand name, the brand SARO was created and recorded in the brand register. It stands for:
Sapphire Round Over. The brand gave reference to the intention of the company, namely to produce watches that are overlaid completely with sapphire stones.
In 1998, the SARO brand was changed to SARO-Gem, the addition of “Gem” intended to clarify the company’s aim of the production of precious stone jewelry watches.
SARO-Gem does little to no advertising anywhere in the world, in fact for years it was only sold by word of mouth. Every SARO-Gem is individually made to order so there was/is no such thing as going to a SARO-Gem dealer and buying one out of a display case. I’ve presented it on television a couple of times, and for each event a unique model was created for just that one show, orders taken, and the watch hand built and delivered to the clients several months later. This sales procedure has assured a most exclusive status for the SARO-Gem productions. A buyer selects dial, bezel shape, finishes, diamond content and position, which part(s) are INOX and which are noble metal (18k or platinum), bracelet or strap, etc. Each is covered by a ten year warranty, which is not only stated in traditional documentation but also activated and registered via an included custom programmed USB memory stick.
I thought I’d begin with a segment of a letter recently sent to me from Thomas Huggler, who without question is one of the leading experts on SARO-Gem and its production techniques.
“SARO-Gem is over 25 years old and relatively new to the US market, though its watch-making tradition dating back to the early 20th century (1914). It is impossible to take any pictures of our watches that will accurately depict their beauty, and their brilliant shine. For example, on the BuonGusto 43 model, no camera will pick up the hand-sprinkled gold dust on the dial. It either comes out as red or white dots. On the sapphire bracelet and sapphire watch models, all pictures must be extensively re-touched to take out the glare produced by reflection, so we can adequately depict the shape of the watch in catalogues and on the website. SARO-Gem watches are top class. They are in the league of very exclusive handmade Swiss watches.”
As an ever-inspiring photographer I can vouch that this watch is without a doubt the most difficult I’ve attempted to capture. Its sapphire surfaces and extreme detail of the unique hand wrought dial are true challenges indeed. The accompanying photos are my attempt at illustrating the color and construction of this timepiece, and that said I can further state that this watch is far more stunning in person than any photo I have seen of it, mine or otherwise.
The watch we are looking at is the SARO-Gem BuonGusto 43 mechanical automatic chronograph. When Rolf von Burg (company owner) drew up the concept for this watch, he knew it would be a spectacular timepiece. The case is individually milled from a solid block of Swiss Inox steel, which exhibits similar advantages as 316L stainless steel. Until now SARO-Gem has been mirror finishing their case, but very recently they developed this new matte finish and were kind enough to submit it for introduction here on WatchCollector.net.
Rolf tells me that the original non coated or otherwise pre-processed Inox case is high velocity sand blasted with very fine sand particles the size of 3/10th of a mm., whereas other companies might use a coating and then an abrasive process. There is no abrasion of any coatings occurring in the work steps. SARO-Gem only uses the high velocity of particles shot on to the surface. As a result the finish is properly applied and very even over the entire surface without any of the inconsistencies or issues one might have with artificial coating techniques.
SARO-Gem installs a “custom rotor” on each pure Swiss movement used; in this case a hand finished and custom decorated pure Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750. They are also increasingly custom decorating the movements as well; note the custom set sapphire cabochon stone on the bridge of this particular example.
Given that each watch is custom built for its owner the sapphire content of course varies, but a good approximation of the sapphire weight in the bracelet would be around 63 ct., plus two 2 sapphire crystals (front and back) total out at 12 ct.
One of the highlights of any SARO-Gem BuonGusto is the individually hand created dial. The base material is brass, a plate of 0.40 mm is colored/lacquered, and into the still wet color actual gold dust is added by hand which makes each dial unique. A transparent lacquer finish is applied to protect the dial, finally the printing of the logo etc. is added. Finally, the Top Wesselton (white, VSI) diamonds are set using jewelry baguette settings. The dial seen here is a very rich blood red/black (an equally rich blue/black is another option). Upon completion each dial is signed on the reverse by both the designer and the owner of the company.
Movement: Pure Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750, 25 Jewel Flyback automatic chronograph, high frequency 4 Hz, Incabloc, blued screw rotor, date at 4 o’clock.
Case: 43mm Inox stainless steel 5-part case in custom matte finish with convex sapphire top crystal, and flat sapphire crystal on case-back.
This particular model features a caseback finished brilliantly in 18k yellow gold. Solid 18k case or selected case components are options as well.
Bezel: Inox 316L (Clous de Paris) Half-Moon bezel with custom matte finish.
Dial: Red “Sun Burst” with gold dust and 8 top Wesselton white, VSI, diamonds (0.02ct/ea). Dials are hand signed (reverse of dial) by designer and owner Rolf von Burg himself.
Hands: Gold finished hour, minute, and second hands with Luminox treatment, Luminox chronograph hands.
Website: http://www.saro-gem-usa.com
Watch Highlights
so) of a given version. Each back case ring is individually numbered.
Production Details:
Watch hands: Base metal of hands is brass, being gold plated for gold look for rhodium plated for the silver look, with center being filled with Luminox.
Case: All parts of the case such as Décor bezel, lower bezel/sealing rings, backs/crystal rings are made of solid INOX stainless steel. Unlike other cases, which are typically pressed or cut, SARO-Gem cases are individually milled from an individual block of steel. Milling the case curve is a lengthy and demanding process of extreme accuracy. The lugs can not be milled out of the same piece and are created separately. The cases are hand finished after raw milling. In superb precision, positioned by specifically designed tools and utilizing exact, measured quantity of solder (very important) in order not to have any overflows, the case assembly is then passed through a high temperature oven to fuse/bake. This will ensure an integral fit and make them appear as if they were crafted
as a single sculpted block. Diamonds may be added to the lugs (and/or bezel) at client request.
Sapphire Overlay: A clear, processed sapphire plate is put into a vacuum oven after the plate has been masked with the decor required. The plate is then deposited under vacuum with the base alloy, afterwards etched and then reprocessed to add the other colors onto the glass. The signature crescent seen in each link is a section of either 18k gold or platinum, depending on client’s choice. Special formulated epoxy is used to attach the sapphire to the steel bracelet. It will withstand 800 lbs. of pull force and glue won’t crack after years of use as it is designed to expand and contract to adhere properly. Each link is assigned a unique serial number (see photo), and each bracelet will exhibit a unique sequential series through the links, which is recorded in the company records. The pins used to connect the links is a two piece design with the pin holding a center tube which guides and holds the pin in place, the benefit of which is a fluid movement of the links without risking the pin falling out as the guide pin has a double notch feature. It also assures a sleek side to the bracelet that is high polished, and another design detail which differentiates handmade SARO-Gem designs from mass produced products.
So, on to cost. As previously stated every component is custom crafted with buyer selecting material (INOX, 18k, platinum), finishing (polished, matte, and/or in the instance of steel case components which if any are to be finished with noble metal), diamond amount and application (SARO-Gem will not use anything other than Top Wesselton, white, VSI), finish etc., so price can vary dramatically. I’ve seen models list as low as the 7000 dollar range and have heard of price tags approaching 30,000 dollars, and I know from my contacts on the inside that this brand will be producing pieces in the 75,000 dollar range early next year (2010)! This particular example shipped with both bracelet and strap as well as caseback and selected case components finished in 18k yellow gold and is likely in the 8000 - 9000 dollar range, though it is worth noting that discounts may be negotiated on an order by order basis.
Pros: A true world class exclusive luxury timepiece. Always pure Swiss. Always individually handmade to order. Gorgeous design, with one of the most spectacular dials in the watch industry. Fantastic attention to precision and quality. Spectacular innovative application of sapphire capabilities (bracelet model). Offers custom exclusivity usually associated with timepieces costing far more.
Cons: Somewhat pricey (though in my view, worth it). Some may find the 43mm not large enough if they insist on the current trend of watches north of 44mm. Would have liked to have seen a water resistance certification beyond 50m, especially given the sophisticated gasket application. Difficult to find, given that they don’t use a traditional dealer network (owners may consider that an advantage).
Bottom Line: One of the most exclusive watches in the price range. If you have the means, acquire one; you will never regret being an owner.
