Dunhill 18k
Dunhill is a luxury brand based in London, England. While probably better known for some of their high end lighters they have on occasion produced a nice watch or two, and in fact is a member of the luxury brands known as the Richemont Group. In this review we’ll take a look at one of their 18k pieces.
This drivers watch is crafted in solid 18K gold. The alloy Dunhill favors tends to be a warmer color, which is complimentary to almost any skin tone. For those not familiar with the term “drivers watch” it refers to the overall wedge shape of the case which in turn tilts the dial towards the wearer, the theory being that it makes the watch more readily legible while gripping a steering wheel. It is this wedge shape that results in the unusual case measurements listed below.
In my view the word “classic” definitely describes Dunhill and this model is a wonderful example of such design. The silver dial features a great looking guilloche pattern of vintage styling while keeping time reading simple, and makes the perfect background to highlight the faceted gilt dauphine hands and art deco styled polished gilt stick markers. All of this is displayed beneath a custom milled sapphire crystal.
The case itself is built in two basic large blocks of solid gold; the lower which is brushed and the upper which is polished. When the two of these are nested the contrast of finishes is quite striking. You will also notice that there is not the traditional “back” on this watch given that the entire lower half of the asymmetrical case is one of the solid gold blocks, so the screws that you see actually extend into the upper half completing the anchoring process. Note the ergonomic curve designed into the solid lower block as well.
One of my favorite features is the way the case protects the crown without interrupting the streamlined architecture. The lower portion of the case has a precise cutout which wraps perfectly around the crown extending from the upper portion, thus protecting it beautifully.
The movement is a high grade Swiss quartz movement which I think plays beautifully in this watch, given that there is no sweep second hand so no need to be concerned about the “chunky” motion associated with most quartz second hands. This is a watch that is a true pleasure to just “put on and go” without having to worry about winding and setting, etc.
The watch is presented on a beautiful French made brown calf strap with a crocodile grain fitted with a matching solid 18K gold Dunhill buckle.
weight 63gm
case height 9mm
hug area 20mm
case width 26mm (27mm including crown)
case length 40mm
case length with lugs 44mm
water resistance 30m
As to wearability, what’s not to love. It’s weight is present but not overbearing and the ergonomic curve of the case has it melding into the wrist, and the low sleek architecture assures that the timepiece effortlessly slides under any style dress cuff.
Price: $3400-$3500 dollar range in new condition
Pros: Great high end brand name cache. Sleek elegant design. Excellent Swiss craftsmanship. Timeless elegance that will always play well.
Cons: Would have liked to have seen a water resistance of at least 50m. Some may consider this watch a bit small given current large watch trends.
Bottom Line: Anyone in the market for a tasteful streamlined solid 18k gold dress watch will love this production. I don’t think it’s in current production but well worth pursuing.
