This Gevril was built between 1995-1998, arguably the crowning achievement during this resurrection of the brand. Today it is considered scarce, and possibly rare. It was produced in an all 316L stainless version, 18k/stainless, and a very few in solid 18k gold. For this review I will be illustrating the 18k/stainless example.

This model is part of the Gevril series subsequently dubbed “first generation”, a term referring to any Gevril built during the 1990’s era. This is a time in history when Gevril was directly associated with a distributor of luxury Swiss watches, who put considerable financial resources behind the brand. This resulted in some great and internationally patented innovations (two of which are in this model) but some beautifully unique packaging as well. These Gevrils shipped in a cube crafted from a solid block of wood. “Gevril” was engraved into the top, with the watch presented on a spring loaded display on the inside. This packaging was subsequently discontinued due to costs, and is today considered collectible in and of itself.

There are many reasons to prize a first generation Gevril, but one of the key reasons in my estimation is the dial. These dials were hand guilloched in Switzerland (as opposed to stamping) with each taking between one to three days to complete, depending on color and gold content. All indexes were individually sculpted, handfinished, and hand applied. it is displayed beneath a glare resistant sapphire crystal.

Each bracelet was also hand built from hundreds of individually handfinished components. In the case of the 18/steel example it would appear that gold was layered onto what one might perceive as smaller rectangle sections, but such is not the case. First of all, those “sections” are actually precisely milled separate hand finished links that nest into the larger master link. Each part featuring gold used a core of 316L steel, which was then wrapped in a thick sheet of 18k gold before being individually finished and polished. Gevril did not adopt a slight ergonomic curve to the reverse side of these links, so you will only see the overall curvature appearing on the obverse. A dual deployant clasp signed for Gevril was the standard for this series.

One of Gevril’s featured patents is the UCI (Unlocked Crown Indicator) which shows up red on the dial at 3:00 if the crown is not screwed down properly, but disappears seamlessly into the dial color when the crown is properly seated. It is a highly practical complication, one of the few I’ve ever seen that literally involve mechanically interacting with a dial, and one lost on subsequent generations though Gevril maintains the patent. The case is of wonderful heft, crafted in 316L steel with sculpted 18k blocks added to the sides. I especially like the fact that the water resistance is taken to 100m, which is double what many high end Swiss dress watches achieve.

The 15° also offers a second time zone (GMT), which is illustrated by a dedicated hand finished differently from the others and set by a pushbutton at 10:00. It is this complication combined with dual mechanical am/pm indicators that resulted in another international patent. The day/night indicator at 3:00 and 9:00 for each time zone, with the “home” or main dial time’s am/pm status shown at the 3:00, favored by an 18k halo in the case of an 18k/stainless or solid 18k model. Rather than change at midnight in the respective times like most, this complication shows white for sunrise 6:00 a.m., and changes to black for sunset at 6:00 p.m. It also has a quickset date window at 6:00, viewed through a magnifier. This pure Swiss automatic movement was named cal B 0ll0, and was Gevril’s first in-house made movement within this generation.

weight 143 gm
40mm at outer curve
38mm at bezel edge
42mm including crown
10.5mm case thickness
20mm bracelet width at lug area

18k/steel bracelet $1050 list price upcharge (street price was likely a bit less).

As to wearability, I’ve overall enjoyed this watch and find it to be an elegant addition to my collection and a great watch with suits, tuxedo, etc. I do on occasion find that the bracelet version pulls the hairs on my arm and also the links immediately adjacent to the clap tend to play a bit stiff, both of which is a bit disappointing for a hand built Swiss bracelet.

Price: I’ve long lost the original pricing I had. In consulting with Gevril they tell me that this particular version of the 15˚ originally retailed in the $5000 dollar range (am guessing that to mean $4995).

Pros: Elegant handcrafted Swiss mechanical automatic. Handsome classic design. Excellent water resistance. To own one is to possess two innovative patented mechanical developments.

Cons: Some may find the case a bit small by today’s standards. Bracelet occasionally snags arm hair.

Bottom line: Well worth snagging from the secondary market if you can find one. Gorgeous classic design, beautiful hand craftsmanship and two mechanical design patents make it a watch to hold on to.